Don't squawk, follow guidelines to replace caulk
As most of you know, my company does mold remediation and restoration. Generally, this process starts out with a mold (fungal) inspection. The intent of the inspection is to determine if there is mold and, if so, to what extent. Most of the time when inspecting a bathroom, black fungal growth is found in the caulk sealing the joints and tub fixtures. In this article, I thought I would discuss various types of caulking, how to remove it and then how to install it.
There are several types of caulking on the market. However, the best to use for tubs, sinks and shower stalls comes in a tub called either "tub and tile" or "kitchen and bath." These types of caulking are either acrylic latex or silicone compounds. They have been chemically treated to resist mold (fungal) growth and stick to smooth, nonporous surfaces. The following characteristics are provided for your review:
A. Silicone: It is tough, waterproof and very flexible. This product is sometimes difficult to work with because of dirty surface conditions, hard to smooth, requires mineral spirits for clean up and emits a strong odor until cured. It leaves a residue that's hard for anything to stick to.
B. Acrylic latex: It is easier to clean up and far more forgiving about the types of surfaces it is applied to. Smoothing it is easy, it cleans up with water and it doesn't have much of a smell. It does shrink and dries harder than silicone.
Tub recaulking:
Recaulking a tub, shower or sink requires a four-step process:
1. Remove existing caulk by slicing the old caulk with a five-in-one painter's tool and razor scraper. Be careful not to damage or cut the sub-surface.
2. Scrub and clean the sub-surface with a nonabrasive scrub pad. If the old caulking was silicone, dip the scrub pad into mineral spirits first and then scrub. Wipe clean with a soft rag.
3. Using blue painter's tape, lay a strip of tape parallel to what you want caulked. About three-eighths of an inch wide should work fine. Cut the tip and point the nozzle hole toward the joint at a 45-degree angle, while squeezing the trigger and moving the gun, apply a uniform bead of caulk to the joint.
4. Using a damp, lint-free rag, lightly press the caulk into the joint with your finger. Pull it along the joint in one continuous motion to shape the fresh caulk into a concave bead. Immediately remove the tape, one strip at a time, taking care not to disturb the freshly laid caulk.
5. Drying time is very important. Always give the caulk at least 24 hours to dry before using the shower or sink.
When cleaning with any cleaning product, always wear eye protection and rubber gloves to protect your hands.
If you would like to share a cleaning idea or concept with the reading audience, call Ed at NWES at 255-2266, or e-mail them to madan@surf1.ws or drop them off at the Daily Bee, 310 Church St., or mail them to or mail them to Bonner County Daily Bee, 310 Church St., Box 159, Sandpoint, ID 83864, Attn: What Would Ed Do?
For more information about Ed, check him out at www.NWEES.com.
Copy written by Edmond E. Madan, certified forensic, fire, flood, mold inspection and remediation contractor. Ed is the CEO of Northwest Executive and Environmental Services, LLC.