Unwelcome house guests can be real pests

In this week's article I thought I would discuss the house mouse.

The house mouse has adapted well to our living environment. Home owners are likely to notice mice during late fall and winter, following their migration indoors in search of warmth and food. Once mice become established inside of the home, they are extremely difficult to control.

Most folks consider mice less objectionable than rats, mice are more common and cause significantly more damage.

Mice are prolific breeders, producing six to 10 litters a year. The greatest economic loss from mice is not due to how much they eat, but rather how much is thrown away because of their contamination.

Food clothing, furniture, books, etc., are contaminated by their droppings and urine.

House mice gnaw through electrical wiring, causing fires and failure of freezers, clothes dryers, and other appliances.

Mice also transmit disease, most notably salmonellosis (bacterial food poisoning); this happens when food that has been contaminated by dropping or urine is eaten by humans.

Mice are nocturnal, therefore rarely seen by the homeowner.

The most obvious indicator of their presence is the 1/8 to 1/2-inch-long, dark and pointed dropping, sounds of them running, gnawing or squeaking, or damage to stored foods or materials used for nesting.

Mice forage only short distances from their nest — usually not more than 25 to 30 feet from their nest. When food and shelter are adequate, their foraging range may only be a few feet.

Traps and control devices must be placed in areas where mouse activity is most viable.

Mice prefer to travel close to walls and other edges. Mice are very inquisitive, they will investigate new objects placed in their foraging area.

The best way to control mice is to prevent their entry. Mice are able to squeeze through very small holes and openings.

Cracks in the foundation, gaps under doors, and around utility pipes larger than 1/4-inch should be filled with a sealant or weather stripping.

Home owners have three options available to control mice:

A. Toxic bait or rodenticides

B. Traps

C. Glue boards

Rodenticide is marketed to homeowners exclusively as a food-based bait containing seeds or grain as an attractant. Most sold over the counter are anticoagulants. They kill by interfering with normal clotting of the rodents' blood, causing them to die from internal bleeding.

Extreme care must be taken to position the bait in areas inaccessible to children or pets. Also, sick rodents may escape to areas between walls or under floors where they will die and decompose, causing odor and insect problems.

Traps are less hazardous to use around children and pets. Snap-type traps are easy to use and available in most of our stores.

Trapping efficiency will be enhanced by tying a piece of bacon, gum drop, or a gauze soaked in peanut butter to the trigger with thread.

Glue boards are very effective against mice. Mice become stuck in the glue when they run over board. Note: should the glue from the board become stuck to animal fur and the skin of a child, it can be removed with mineral oil.

If you are allergic to any of the above products, please don't use them. Always test fabrics and paints before using any chemical compounds.

Please remember to wear rubber gloves to protect your hands and eye protection for your eyes.

If you would like to share a cleaning idea or concept with the reading audience, call Ed at NWES (255-2266) or send them to Bonner County Daily Bee, 310 Church St., Sandpoint, 1D 83864, Attn: What Would Ed Do?

To find out more information about Ed, check him out on his Web site: NWEES.COM or e-mail him at madan@surfl.ws

Copy written by Edmond E. Madan, certified forensic, fire, flood, mold inspection & remediation contractor. Ed is the CEO of Northwest Executive & Environmental Services, LLC.