Classes on tap for large-, small-scale gardeners

Probably the best thing I’ve ever done for myself (and my readers) was take the Master Gardeners course in 1995. I was already writing gardening columns and did have a share of experience to pass on in them, but I knew I was really short in a lot of areas — soils, for instance — and signed up for the two-plus-month series.

What a revelation! A whole new world opened up for me with the myriad aspects of “gardening” — landscaping, veggies and ornamentals, rock and container gardens, mini-habitats, pests, beneficial insects, shrubs and trees — and our own tolerance zone for planting in general. These were priceless lifetime gifts overshadowed only by the greatest boon of all — my classmates!

With one common goal in mind, we were already comrades-in-arms and it was only natural we would like one-another. The friends I made then are still my friends — some “besties” — but all respected and revered to this day. Many went on to sell at the Farmers Market or establish their own private and some public gardens/nurseries –others, such as the lovely Janene Grende — used the floral knowledge for use in glorious artworks.

All of us were richly rewarded in different ways from the wisdom garnered at the classes — passed ion by university or county experts with a wealth of background on their subjects.

This opportunity is open now and time is short for the classes which will begin in February.

The Bonner County Gardeners Association is offering the membership course which will meet on Mondays and Fridays for a seven-week period. The course is $150 and includes a plethora of materials. Sign-up time is waning, so call them at 265-2070 and leave a message or phone number, or email at bcgardeners@gmail.com.

Speaking of schedules and dates, The Kinnikinnick Native Plant Society — founded by MG grad Lois Wythe — has booked two programs: One, this Saturday, Jan 27, will be presented by Tom Eckberg, forest health specialist of the Idaho Department of Lands, on “What is Killing the Trees?” I, among others, have watched in horror as beautiful white firs in seeming good health, suddenly turn brown and die — very quickly. If you’ve seen this too, don’t miss this program.

Saturday, Feb. 25, Phil Hough, executive director of Friends of the Scotchman Peaks Wilderness, will provide an update on that worthy project. Both programs are at 9:45 a.m. sharp and held at the Community Hall (across from the County Courthouse).

There is no charge and all are welcome to attend.

One of my favorite classmates and still dear friend from those early-day garden classes is Ann Warwick, who recently provided some really neat and practical information which I must repeat here in part.

If your spring garden plans are percolating, consider her suggestion to lay out soaker hoses in the garden after soil preparation but before planting. This makes a lot of sense if you follow up by leaving the connecting ends on or at a central path so as to make it easy to attach the main hose to the ends for watering. This negates dragging a network of hoses over rows and growing plants — especially new seedlings just peeking through.

My contribution to today’s column will be a little reminder on winter houseplant care: Philodendron, Sanseviaria, Bromeliads and other “jungle” types — along with African violets, Gardenias and other tender bloomers — are those which live eternally inside as part of the décor.

Then there are the hardier “transitional” types, which spend the late spring and summer months outdoors, returning inside only after the first frosts of late fall. These include various Begonias, Ficus, some dwarf fruit trees and others, all of which remain in their pots.

The final group — which are not really houseplants at all, but “rest” inside over the winter — are tender perennials such as Rosemary and Lemon grass, along with some favored Geraniums, perhaps, which are generally returned to the garden soil in or out of their pots, as per individual preference, when warm weather returns.

All these plants share three indoor needs: the proper amount of water, light and air circulation. It can be tricky to figure some of them out. Though many experts recommend less watering during winter, they don’t seem to recognize climate differences — even inside.

The dry air and warm wood-heated environment in my house demands that I continue watering my year-round residents — Philodendrons, et al, as per usual. They grow continually and never “rest” as do the travelers.

But there is water, and then there is “moisture.” This can lead to real problems for those who take the “less water” rule too literally and simply cut down on water without seeing to moisture. Lack of humidity can be one of those problems, and while misting with a spray bottle is a great solution, it can be a real hassle for those with many or large plants.

Winter air in the home is generally dry air, and some low-ceilinged homes may also have poor air circulation. Making sure your plants are not crowded is a given, and can be overcome with smaller plants by standing them in shallow trays two-to three inches deep, filled with rocks or pebbles. Keep the water up to the level of the rocks throughout the dry winter season until regular watering can be resumed. Another option is to move your humidity-sensitive plants to a high-moisture area such as the bathroom or even the kitchen. Foliage plants have their own rules, however; flowering plants must continue to receive ample water in order to produce their seasonal blooms. So for those, the watering continues as usual. And these plants demand another consideration — enough light; hard to come by with short, dark winter days. Keep your flowering (and transitional) plants in your best lighted/windowed areas, turning weekly for optimum exposure, and if necessary, shine extra light on them when possible. As with your outdoor ornamentals, forego fertilizer until spring brings longer days.

Valle Novak writes the Country Chef and Weekend Gardener columns from the Daily Bee. She can be reached at bcdailybee@bonnercountydailybee.com.