Planting/transplanting heats up as nights cool down

A few 42-degree mornings (followed by 90-degree days!) tell me that frosts loom and fall’s on its way. It’s time to plant/transplant bulbs and corms — Iris, lilies, and shrub-type perennials you’ve been wanting to relocate.

Now’s the time too, to bring in your “tenders” — rosemary, lemon-grass, and other cold-susceptible potted plants that you may have planted (as I do) in their permanent pots for easy transfer to home life. Give them a sunny window, and they will thrive through the winter to be replaced in the garden when the soil has warmed.

You can begin with bulb planting now — and through October and into November if there’s no snow. And remember, since each type of bulb needs to be planted at a certain depth — from several inches to barely below-ground, one can “layer” them — staggered, of course — during planting for continuous bloom. Read instructions on packages and prepare for a dazzling show next summer.

Transplanting is pretty easy, but bulbs do need well-prepared, moistened soil. Each bulb needs to be snugged in — with no air pockets — to rest through the winter. The soil should be moist since it makes planting easier. Second, you must excavate the soil to the depth of the deepest-planted bulbs. Here’s a little primer to go by: soil to 8 inches deep for Narcissi and Lilies, with space needed between individual types 4-6 inches apart for Narcissi, 12-24 inches for Lilies. (Remember that planting other types between them is ok). Place bulbs gently but firmly into the soil, then fill in this bottom area with soil to the next depth — six inches for Gladioli (6-10 inches apart); then five-inch depth for Hyacinth (3 inches apart); four inches for Fritillaria, three inches for Crocus and Scilla, two inches for Convallaria (Lily-of-the-Valley) — all of these may be planted closely in loose clusters); two inches for Iris (rhizome top should be slightly exposed), planted in groups with rhizomes facing away from each other allows for lovely clusters of blooms. When planting is done, fill in evenly with soil and water well. Always continue watering your ornamentals until the rainy season comes.

By the way, if you plan on establishing bulbs in an area which was formerly lawn, make sure that weed and feed or other herbicides were not used there. They can have a harmful effect on bulbs. Naturally, you will never consider using any chemical poisons in your ornamental gardens.

When choosing bulbs, remember that while tulips are indeed beautiful, deer love them too. Since this is definitely deer country, consider instead the many choices of Narcissi — daffodils, jonquils and fragrant narcissus. And remember, daffodils aren’t just yellow anymore — there are whites, pinks, and a variety of types from the classic trumpet to fluffy curled centers available — and the deer do NOT like them! Too, lilies (of any ilk) don’t seem to appeal to them either. With the glorious array of Asiatic and other hardy lilies to choose from, often with fragrance as a bonus, there’s no reason to be deprived of all-season beauty because of the deer population. Deer also ignore Iris — from the lovely and graceful Siberian styles to the old-fashioned bearded “flag lily” they are so hardy, so nostalgic and offer such glorious colors they are an asset to any garden. Many come in early-to-late blooming patterns, and the former don’t mind “wet feet” so are great planted near water features. On the other hand, the beautiful and dependable classic “flags”and their dwarf cousins tolerate an amazing amount of dry conditions and are always a good bet for practical garden beauty. Incidentally, don’t cut the still-green tops off as many people do. As with many bulb-type growers, Iris rhizomes need the nourishment from the leaves. Wait until spring and simply pull off the faded leaves then.

Remember, you can pop bulbs in anywhere — in a “naturalized” swath (just toss them out and plant where they land) — or in a controlled area for a formal look.

After planting or transplanting, be sure to mulch. It is really necessary in our area, since often cold winds and freezes come before the healing, protective snow cover. Leaf mulch is best but pine needles or straw will do if that’s what you have. Bark chips do not provide proper protection or conserve moisture. Leaf mulch serves nicely and is generally the best choice. The efficiency of raking your leaves during clean-up and then using them as mulch is a bonus.

As you work, clean dead/dried leaf residue from the immediate area — making later clean-up easier. Leave faded flowers on those plants that form ornamental seed heads, pods or berries — this includes sunflowers, clematis seed puffs, roses (hips), etc. And while you’re working outside, don’t forget to provide water in a shallow pan or birdbath for your feathered friends.

Next time, we’ll talk about transplanting rooted perennials.

Valle Novak writes the Country Chef and Weekend Gardener columns for the Daily Bee. She can be reached at bcdailybee@bonnercountydailybee.com or by phone at 208-265-4688.