Lilies can grow, spread as easily as daffodils

Nearly two decades ago, I clipped an article titled “Lilies for Naturalizing — A Rainbow of Carefree Summer Color” — written by Amos Pettingill of White Flower Farm. His words so captivated me, that I repeat them now, as introduction to today’s column.

“There is no flower more graceful and lovely than the Lily. The blooms of this hardy and long-lived genus are colorful and varied in form, and many are richly fragrant. Lilies are superb in a mixed border, magnificent interplanted with earlier bulbs and ferns, and quite unbelievably beautiful when scattered in large numbers across a meadow or woodland … of course they also offer glorious and long-lasting cut flowers.”

Shortly after moving off “my mountain-top” in 1990 to my still-current home, I put the inspiration from his words to the test. I began with the hardiest of all, day-lilies, which bloom in clumps with green strap-like foliage that stays pretty even as the trumpet flowers bloom and die each day. Back then, orange was pretty much the only choice, but later more and more colors became available; I planted many of them and after 28 years they are still going strong!

It is the great hybrids that bloom in clusters and last “forever” that I want to recommend today — the lilies for naturalizing. These can include Asiatic (hardiest) trumpets and trumpet/Oriental crosses, all offering incredible hardiness — so important for our soil and climate — plus a knock-out bonus: Bulbs planted this spring will bloom this coming summer. After time they can reach two feet tall, so consider placement. Front a green hedge with them, fill in soil pockets in the rock garden, make a swath through a planting of Hosta*, ferns or other green leaved ornamentals — or plant en masse for a grand show fronting an arbor, rose bush or entry-way. They’ll grow anywhere, preferring moist, friable fairly acidic soil, but do NOT like wet feet! Though they love the sun, they will tolerate dappled shade beautifully. A warning, however: deer love tender lily buds — but not the full lilies or their foliage — so if you are plagued by the pretty but pesky creatures, reconsider *hosta as a planting partner, for deer love them, too. Brunnera, Pulmoneria or even Lilies of the Valley might be better choices.

The colors are to die for — solids of shining whites, gleaming golds, gentle pinks, glowing reds and corals, even green! — some are “painted” for a two-tone effect; and the beauties like Stargazer, their kin “Sheherazade” among others, and Trumpet/Oriental crosses with their regal beauty and fragrance offer a multitude of choices. The shapes too, are varied: from traditional trumpet to star, ruffled, morning glory, and gladiola-like petals, and often, colored stamens.

After the third year of bloom (as per most all perennials) you may carefully dig up the bulbs, gently remove the scales, offsets and bulblets growing from them for re-planting elsewhere, and return the “mother” bulb to its site. If you did a grouped planting, this is the perfect time to separate. You may add a dash of bulb food if you wish, but don’t use soil enrichment — lilies do not do well in alkaline soil. As for the bulblets, plant them with an eye for their future showing, realizing it will take a bit longer for their small size. Often, containers work well for these, for later transplants into the ground.

Take a look around at local nurseries, and talk with the owners/managers — they’ll give best advice. Please don’t buy bags of bulbs (or any plants) at big box/chain stores: with so many furtive additives that are harmful to other plants, beneficial insects, birds and even the environment itself — it’s vital to keep the faith and protect our gardens and landscapes the way Nature intended — not Bayer or Roundup, et al.

Valle Novak writes the Country Chef and Weekend Gardener columns for the Daily Bee. She can be reached at bcdailybee@bonnercountydailybee.com or by phone at 208-265-4688.