Beautify shoreline with thoughtful buffer planting
With the current influx of new residents to the area, many of whom are opting for waterfront property, I decided to re-run this article from a few years ago to perhaps provide information and some answers to common questions and/or problems.
New owners of waterfront properties often find themselves dealing with two problems they’d never given much thought to: erosion and pollution. Generally such properties make their way down to the water from a slope; this brings drainage down across the property that may carry pesticides, effluents and soil into the water, creating an unsafe habitat for shore-and water-dwelling creatures as well as swimmers.
Flat approaches are rare, but do exist, and while pollution from above may be lessened, erosion at the waterline is still a danger from water movement and the wakes of passing boats. Fortunately, one solution exists for both possibilities: Shoreline buffer planting.
Creating buffer zones between waterfront and residences takes only a little forethought, study and knowledge to accomplish and is actually as simple as working with Nature instead of against her.
Often, people moving into a waterside home enthusiastically want to “beautify” the surroundings with ornamental landscaping. Their first thought is generally to rip out the existing shrubs and “weeds” and replant — perhaps to open up a better view. Bad idea!
Some time ago, workshops hosted (individually) by Lake Pend Oreille Waterkeeper and Pend Oreille LakeASyst/Kinnikinnick Native Plant Society, Inc. Both are proponents of using native plants and avoiding those that harm or endanger the environment. Each, of course, has their own agenda for different aspects of water protection, but growing native — with no pesticides — for clean water is a common denominator.
As a youngster, I recall spending summers at our cabin on Echo Beach at Lower Twin Lakes. The naturally sandy beach was reached through a path that led through a "jungle" of Serviceberry, Chokecherry, ferns, Thimbleberry, and small willow shrubs, giving way to cattails and horsetail closer to the water.
Daddy never even considered clearing a larger opening, since the foliage was filled with birds and their nests, flowers and berries in season, and was a beautiful sight from the water as well. There was a huge variety of songbirds, waterfowl and shorebirds including ducks, loons, bitterns, herons, sandpipers and kildeer. The small, pretty lavender-blue "puddling" butterflies would sometimes simply cover the beach and it was a haven that I still remember.
Some folks, however, want a better view of the water. Too, they may have opted for a year-round residence, and they need more consideration of the buffer landscaping.
Sites vary, of course: Rocky beaches; sandy areas; marshlands; foliage-covered and/or bare approaches, as well as large trees or small groves right to the water. The point is to get to the water or dock for swimming, relaxing, boating or whatever, without stumbling over rocks, breaking through shrubbery, or wading through muck. That's understandable. How to work with Nature without compromising your own wants and needs? Our area recommendation is a vegetative buffer of at least 30 but preferably 60 feet in width between your home and the water.
Basically, it's the resident who is going to have to yield for the good of the environment. But this is where discernment and innovation come into play. Begin by learning what you have: what's native and truly belongs. Take pictures. Identify plants. Then begin the decision process, keeping in mind that an undisturbed shoreline is generally a healthy one. Begin at the waterline, and look for emergent plants. These are rooted in the lake or river bottom with stems/leaves extending out of the water, such as cattails and waterlily (Idaho has only one native waterlily). Cattails also extend along the shore and host summer families of red-wing and yellow-headed blackbirds, while the waterlilies offer support for frogs and turtles above and tadpoles below. Both provide shelter for ducks, bitterns and other water- and shorebirds.
Moving up, you should find grass-like plants with strong, deep roots that stabilize banks against erosion. These are the Sedges and Rushes, not only attractive, but an important food for waterfowl and other birds.
Groundcover may include grasses which, to be successful should be natives with their tough, fine, fibrous roots which control erosion and strengthen the soil – something that traditional lawn grasses cannot do for you. Non-grass covers like wild ginger, Goldthread, Canadian dogwood, and many others, depending on the amount of sun/shade, work with grass for an integrated, healthy soil structure.
Wildflowers — depending on sun/shade/soil, can include wild violets, trillium, Solomon’s seal (False and Starry), Monkshood, tiarella, Shooting star, wild Iris, Beebalm, goldenrod — too numerous to catalog. They will draw butterflies, hummingbirds, bees and pollinating insects as well as beautifying the landscape from spring through autumn.
Next come the flowering or fruited shrubs, which can include small, often berried trees (Mt. Ash, Elderberry, Chokecherry, Serviceberry) segueing into large trees - treasure them, one and all: the great cottonwoods and birches provide homes and/or lookouts for herons and our sizeable Osprey and Bald Eagle population, while pines, fir and spruce house owls, woodpeckers and small mammals. Smaller aspens, willows, alders, red osier dogwood, sumac - serve the songbirds with food and shelter. Add benches under the larger trees for meditative relaxation.
Once you’ve taken your survey, take action. Identify what you have, determine what must “go away” and acquaint yourself with new possibilities. And remember, cherishing your natives doesn’t mean you have to tear out established non-natives. Perhaps there are some extant rhododendrons or lilacs – let them be! Destruction isn’t what you’re after, but a new beginning based on what you already have that’s suitable and what you want to incorporate for the long run.
If you have rocks, keep them, one and all; augment them as landscaping with appropriate plantings, pots, driftwood and such. If access to the water is rough, you can use some of those rocks for pavers or as border to a graveled footpath.
If you purchased or now live on waterfront property, and have discovered problems – a marsh or bog, an erosion problem that planting won’t fix, help is out there. No matter what inconveniences must be faced to conform to ecological standards, the ultimate result within only a few months will be worth it all.
The best part is that when you're finished, you're done for good! Natives need no fertilizers, no pesticides, sprays or pruning, no special care at all, but they'll benefit you for decades!
There are countless native plants to choose from. Contact the Kinnikinnick Native Plant Society, Inc., P.O Box 1092, Sandpoint, ID, 83864(www.nativeplantsociety.org) or visit the Native Plant Arboretum at Lakeview Park for inspiration. Get a copy of their book “Landscaping with Native Plants in the Idaho Panhandle”.
If you live on the lake and have questions about legal property concerns, contact LakeASyst at Bonner Soil and Water Conservation Dist., 208-263-5310 ext. 103, (lakeasyst@gmail.com.
For information about wastewater, storm drains, noxious plants, pesticides and other local water concerns, contact Lake Pend Oreille Waterkeeper, PO Box 732, Sandpoint, ID, 83864.
